Now, I know the title is in French, and I am writing in English and living in Spanish– but when I decided to write a post on the Carnaval celebrations in Peru, this is the first phrase that came to mind. The unofficial slogan of New Orleans’ Mardi Gras debauchery festivities, “laissez les bons temps rouler!” literally means “let the good times roll!” Fitting, because every February, across continents, cultures, and languages, “good time” gals and guys partake in one of the most enduring traditions left behind by the ruthless, unforgiving Roman Catholic colonization of native civilizations–crazy parties, parades and general street revelry!!
It may not have the butt-cheek-jiggling international recognition of Rio de Janeiro’s iconic event, or the deliciously Cajun spice of a Mardi Gras adventure, but Peru’s version of Carnaval it is still damn fun! Here’s why:
1. Water Balloon Guerrilla Warfare
In Olmos, every January 20th marks the official start of “Carnavales”, a month-long, pueblo-wide water balloon offensive. Anyone and everyone on the street is a potential target for rowdy teenagers who, after a year of waiting, have free reign to indiscriminately peg innocent bystanders with water balloons. Usually docile and humble teenagers turn into wartime operation commanders in search for their next target. Their version of military tanks: mototaxis. Although I am part of the hunted, I strangely enjoy this temporary imbalance of power. For 30 glorious days, it is culturally and socially acceptable for teens to wreak (safe) havoc in our town, and even coax opponents into full fledged water fights. How fun!!! I somehow managed not to get hit this year, but I have had a few moments of panic when I hear the roar of the mototaxi coming up behind me and start furiously looking for last-minute shelter. Whew. Although I always managed to escape, others are not so lucky, like that one time my friend got drenched with a whole bucket full of water on her walk home. Alls fair in Carnaval water wars!
2. The “Yunsa”
Katherine, a volunteer living in the outskirts of Olmos, in a town about half an hour away, invited me to her site to partake in a “Yunsa,” a Carnaval celebration. Having never heard of it, I was curious as to what the party entailed. All I needed to hear was “food, prizes and chopping a tree with a machete” and I was sold.
aplausos for Katherine, part of the decorating and organizing committee
And I have to say, the party delivered. Here is the gist: organizers buy a tree and decorate it with streamers and prizes. The tree is prominently placed in a large open space where the whole town will gather to drink and dance the night away. As the festivities wind down, the padrino of the party — basically the person who fronted the money to pay for the presents on the tree– ceremoniously hacks at the tree base with a machete (or in our case, an ax). The crowd sways and swells, hoping to guess where the tree will topple and snatch all the dangling prizes. It’s just like a piñata, but no kids, plenty of alcohol..and an ax! I cautiously stayed far from the masses during the chopping, since I’d like to keep my limbs intact, but after the dust settled, I was able to scourge the remains and found a prize — a box of tea! Yunsa, the gift the keeps on giving.
timber!
3. El Carnaval de Cajamarca
The last weekend of February has thousands flocking to the the sierra city of Cajamarca, site of where the last Inca king, Atahualpa, was held captive and executed. But no one is thinking of this grim page in history when there are street parties and one giant, all-day paint war to prepare for. This year was the last opportunity for Peace Corps volunteers to attend Carnaval (new administrative policy strictly forbids it), so we took advantage and flocked there ourselves. First order of business was to find a massive water gun, at a relatively low price.
check.
Water guns, paint gallons, buckets, water balloons and maybe some safety goggles, are all part of the armament necessary for the biggest paint party in the continent (probably). Powerful drumbeats reverberate in the streets while throngs of people roam around, spraying their guns, tossing balloons, chanting, drinking and singing the joys of Carnaval. No one outside their home is safe, not the cops, babies, or even puppies. A streak of paint here, a glob of shaving cream there, all signs that you were among the crowds, in the party. Fact: The time it takes to rub all the paint off your body in the shower is directly correlated to the amount of fun you had Carnaval weekend.
before the war
friendly fire
come at me with some paint!
well, those clothes are ruined!
All-day paint wars and all-night block parties with some of my favorite people in Peru was the perfect way to celebrate my last Carnaval season as a volunteer.
Laissez les bons temps rouler, indeed.
Betty Zee in PC 